Isla Cabuya is a small island just off Cabuya's beach that serves as the village cemetery. At low tide you can walk out to it over the rocky reef in about 10 to 15 minutes; at high tide the way is underwater, so timing is everything.
What it is
Look out from Cabuya's beach and you'll see a low, tree-covered island a short way offshore. That's Isla Cabuya, and it's the village cemetery. Families from Cabuya still bury their dead there, so alongside old, weathered crosses you'll find recent graves, some with handmade headstones by local artists. Sources disagree on how far back the burials go, with some pointing to the 1700s and others to much earlier, but everyone agrees it has been the village's resting place for a very long time.
What makes it unusual is how you get there. Twice a day the tide drops far enough to uncover a band of reef between the beach and the island, and you can walk across. A few hours later the sea closes over it again.
Timing the walk
This is the one thing to get right. Check a tide table the day before and plan to arrive at the beach about an hour before low tide. That gives you time to cross, look around the island and walk back while the water is still dropping or barely starting to rise. If you leave it until after low tide, you'll be racing the sea back, and people do get stranded on the island until the next low tide.
Spring tides around the full and new moon uncover the most reef and make the crossing easier. Our guide to Cabuya tides explains how to read the tables.
The crossing
The walk takes about 10 to 15 minutes. It isn't hard, but it isn't a beach stroll either: the reef is sharp in places and slippery with algae, and you'll wade through pools that can be knee deep. Wear water shoes or sandals with straps; flip-flops come off and bare feet get cut. Go slowly, step on rock rather than into holes, and keep an eye on small waves breaking at the reef's edge.
Bring water, sun protection and a hat. There's very little shade on the reef, and none of it is quick to reach.
On the island
The cemetery takes up the island's high ground among the trees. Walk quietly, keep to the paths, and don't move or touch anything on the graves. If you see a funeral or family visit underway, come back another day. It's a working cemetery that happens to be beautiful, not an attraction.
The reef pools around the island are full of life at low tide: small fish, crabs and sea snails. Some visitors snorkel off the island's sandy side when the water is calm, but only do this with plenty of time before the tide turns.
Who it suits
Anyone steady on their feet who's happy to get wet. Small children can manage with help and good shoes. If you have trouble with balance, the beach view at low tide is still worth it, and the tide pools near the shore are easier to explore.
Getting there
The walk starts from Cabuya's beach, a few minutes from the village center. Several places to stay are within walking distance, including Villas Cabuya. Combine it with a morning at Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve on a day when low tide falls in the afternoon.
Frequently asked questions
When can you walk to Cabuya Island?
Only around low tide. Arrive about an hour before low tide and start back before the water rises.
How long is the walk?
About 10 to 15 minutes each way across uneven, slippery reef.
What should I wear?
Water shoes or strapped sandals, a hat and sun protection. Don't go barefoot.
Is the cemetery still used?
Yes. It's Cabuya's cemetery and still has recent burials, so visit quietly and stay away during funerals.
What happens if I miss the tide?
The reef floods and you'd be stuck on the island until the next low tide, roughly 12 hours later. Don't try to swim back across.
