Things to do in Cabuya, Costa Rica

The two things nobody should miss in Cabuya are a hike in Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve and the low-tide walk to the island cemetery just offshore. Add a boat trip to Isla Tortuga, a swim in the Río Lajas, a chocolate tour by the reserve gate and a day at Montezuma's waterfalls, and you'll fill a slow week.

Cabuya is a small fishing village at the very bottom of the Nicoya Peninsula, where the road from Montezuma runs out at the gate of Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve. There's no strip of bars and no big resort. What it does have is forest that comes right down to the sea, a reef that drains at low tide, and an island cemetery you can walk to across the rocks. Here's how to spend your days.

Hike Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve

Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve was created in 1963 and is often called Costa Rica's oldest protected area. It's an "absolute" reserve, the strictest level of protection, so visitors can use only 2 trails and the rest of the forest is left alone.

The main walk is the Sendero Sueco (Swedish Trail), about 4.5 to 5 km each way to Playa Cabo Blanco, a white-sand cove framed by cliffs. Plan on roughly 2 hours each way, with steep climbs, roots and a few small stream crossings. The shorter Sendero Danés (Danish Trail) is an easier loop of about 1.5 to 2 km if you just want a taste of the forest.

The reserve is open Wednesday to Sunday, 8 am to 4 pm, and closed Monday and Tuesday. If you're hiking to the beach, start by about 11 am. Look and listen for howler and white-faced capuchin monkeys, coatis and deer. Offshore, the white rocks of Isla Cabo Blanco host Costa Rica's largest brown booby colony, which is where the cape gets its name.

Walk to the island cemetery at low tide

About 100 m off Playa Cabuya sits Isla Cabuya, a small island that's still the village's working cemetery. At low tide the reef drains and you can walk out across the rocks in about 10 to 15 minutes. At high tide it's cut off.

Check a tide table, set out about an hour before low tide and turn back before it starts rising. Wear sturdy water shoes, because the rocks are sharp and slippery, and bring water and sun protection. It's a real cemetery, so be quiet and respectful, and stay away if a funeral is taking place. Our Cabuya island guide and tides guide have the details.

Swim, snorkel and explore the shore

Playa Cabuya is pebbly and rocky, with calm water at high tide and a lagoon at the mouth of the Río Lajas that's good for a dip. North toward Montezuma, Playa Los Cedros has sand, tide pools at low tide and a surf break. Further on, Playa Las Manchas, about 2 km south of Montezuma, is one of the better spots for swimming and snorkeling when the sea is calm. See beaches near Cabuya for the full list and which ones are safe to swim.

For snorkeling, the reef around Cabuya island is the nearest spot, and boat trips to Isla Tortuga are the classic day out. Our snorkeling and diving guide explains the options.

Follow the Río Lajas upstream

The Río Lajas meets the sea just north of the village. Near the mouth there's a wide swimming area where roseate spoonbills often feed. If you wade and scramble upstream for about an hour, bearing right where the river splits, you reach a small waterfall and pool. In the driest months the water can be low and still, so it's better for a walk than a swim then.

Take a boat out

Local captains run fishing trips, snorkel outings and sunset cruises from Cabuya beach. SpicyTuna Cabuya offers fishing charters, private Isla Tortuga trips and sunset tours. From Montezuma, Zuma Tours and Isla Tortuga Tour run full-day snorkel trips to Isla Tortuga. Humpback whales pass this coast in season; local operators mention July to November and December to March. Our tours guide compares them.

Learn where chocolate comes from

Indígena Café and Chocolate, about 100 m before the Cabo Blanco gate, makes chocolate from the bean and works with the Ngöbe Indigenous community. It runs chocolate tours where you follow cacao from seed to bar and make your own, and the cafe is a good lunch stop after the hike.

Support wildlife rescue

Wild Sun Rescue Center is a non-profit that rescues, treats and releases injured wildlife, including animals hurt by power lines and dogs, and it's working to bring scarlet macaws back to the area. Its website doesn't advertise walk-in tours, so contact it before you go. It also has a jungle lodge whose stays help fund the center.

Visit Montezuma's waterfalls

Montezuma Waterfall is about 15 to 20 minutes' drive north. There are 3 falls: the big lower one, about 20 to 30 minutes up the riverbed from the road, and two upper falls with pools. People have died jumping from the falls, so don't jump, and leave if the water rises or turns muddy after rain. For a different angle, SunTrails runs a zipline over the forest that stops at the upper falls.

Go further: Montezuma, Mal País and Santa Teresa

Montezuma has more restaurants, the beach scene and Playa Grande, a long surf beach a walk north of town. On the other side of the cape, Mal País and Santa Teresa have the peninsula's best-known surf and a lively food scene. The rough road over the hills from Cabuya to Mal País is only an option in a 4x4, usually only in the dry season. See our Montezuma day trip and Mal País and Santa Teresa day trip guides.

Do as little as possible

The other thing people do in Cabuya is slow down. Mornings start early with howler monkeys, the bakery opens for breakfast, and evenings are quiet. If you need a plan, the village guide has a suggested rhythm for a few days.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Cabuya?

2 to 3 full days covers Cabo Blanco, the island walk and a boat trip. Plan your days around the reserve being closed on Monday and Tuesday and around the low tides.

Can you visit Cabo Blanco on a Monday?

No. The reserve is closed on Monday and Tuesday and open Wednesday to Sunday, 8 am to 4 pm. Check locally before you go, as hours can change.

Is the walk to the Cabuya island cemetery safe?

It's safe if you go around low tide and turn back in time. The rocks are sharp and slippery, so wear water shoes, and don't get caught out by the rising tide.

Is Cabuya good for nightlife?

Not really. Salón El Higuerón is the village bar, open in the evenings from Wednesday to Sunday. For a livelier night, Montezuma is 15 to 20 minutes away.